Welcome to a journey to Salento, a land of timeless beauty and authentic atmosphere. Where to go on vacation recommends Lecce and offers its guests and readers a reasoned guide to the most beautiful city in Salento.
Salento is a dream destination for those seeking a holiday filled with beauty, culture, and gastronomy. With its charming towns, pristine beaches, and rich history, Salento offers an unforgettable experience for travelers in search of authenticity. In this guide, we will explore the main points of interest in Salento, revealing the must-see places that will make your vacation a unique experience.
Lecce: Capital of Salento Baroque
Let's start our journey in the heart of Salento with Lecce, a city of art famous for its extraordinary Baroque style. Stroll through the narrow cobblestone streets of the historic center and admire the wonderful churches, such as the Basilica of Santa Croce and the Cathedral of Lecce. Taste the lively atmosphere of the main square, Piazza del Duomo, surrounded by cozy cafes and restaurants.
Porta Napoli
Let's begin our tour from Porta Napoli, a triumphal arch that serves as the entrance to the historic heart of the city of Lecce. Porta Napoli, along with two other gates, Porta San Biagio and Porta Rudiae, marked the entrance to the historic center of the city. It is located near the small square called Piazzetta Arco di Trionfo.
Why is it called Porta Napoli? Because it served as the starting point for the consular road leading to Naples. Built on the ashes of Porta San Giusto (another patron saint of the city), it was designed by the military architect Gian Giacomo dell'Acaya and built in honor of Charles V, who commissioned the fortification of the city. The initiative to build this gate received widespread support from the people of Lecce and from Ferrante Loffredo, president of the Province of Terra d'Otranto, wanting to commemorate the greatness and dominion of the Empire of Charles V of Habsburg. In the 19th century, the walls near Porta Napoli were demolished.
Trivia: legend has it, especially among graduating students, that whoever crosses the gate will never achieve the coveted degree.
The Obelisk
At the entrance to the historic heart of Lecce, right in front of Porta Napoli, stands one of the city's symbols: the Obelisk. This magnificent structure was erected in celebration and homage to the visit of Ferdinand I of Bourbon, monarch of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. In the distant 1822, the skillful artist Vito Carluccio shaped the Lecce stone, following the detailed directions of the architect Luigi Cipolla, to create this monument that today attracts the attention of thousands of tourists every year, becoming the favorite subject for souvenir photos.
The obelisk is not just a landmark in the landscape of Lecce, but also a vital meeting place for the local community and visitors: a gathering point for cultural events, social evenings, and various group activities among students, workers, and friends.
Taking a closer look at the obelisk, you will notice several sections adorned with symbols representing the historical districts of the province of Terra d'Otranto: the She-Wolf of Lecce, the Rooster of Gallipoli, the Deer of Brindisi, and the Scorpion of Taranto, each narrating a part of the rich local history.
The Latin inscriptions at the base of the obelisk reveal not only the distances from Lecce to the mentioned cities but also pay homage to the visit of Ferdinand I of Bourbon, warmly welcomed by the locals.
Trivia: some experts argue that originally the obelisk was painted black, at the request of the royal family, to give it the appearance of basalt or marble. Over time, however, the elements revealed the natural beauty of the Lecce stone, restoring its original splendor. A trip to Lecce cannot be complete without admiring this historic monument, a silent witness to centuries of history and culture.
Church of Santa Maria della Porta or San Luigi Gonzaga
As you move away from Porta Napoli, leaving it on your left, you will come across a wall that at first glance may seem insignificant. However, what might escape your gaze is actually a hidden gem of Lecce's historical and cultural heritage: the Church of Santa Maria della Porta, also known as the Church of San Luigi Gonzaga. This wonderful church represents one of the most significant accesses to the historic center of Lecce, in the bright heart of Salento.
The history of this place of worship begins as a modest chapel outside the city walls, dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Over the years, precisely from 1852 to 1858, the building underwent a radical transformation under the guidance of the architect Giuseppe Maiola da Maddaloni, assuming an imposing neoclassical structure. The church, with its octagonal central plan, stands out for its compact and geometric shape, as well as for the impressive dome which, despite its proximity to Porta Napoli, originally stood outside the city walls.
Despite its modest size, the Church of Santa Maria della Porta houses a remarkable artistic and spiritual wealth. It is easy to pass by without noticing it, given its discreet location next to one of the most emblematic symbols of Lecce. Originally, this church was a small chapel that protected an image of the Virgin Mary considered miraculous, dedicated to the biblical episode in which Mary finds Jesus among the doctors of the temple.
The decision not to demolish but to transform the chapel into a proper church was made after the miracle attributed to the Virgin in 1567, when Laura Macchia was healed from paralysis. Inaugurated on March 16, 1606, the church was then completely renovated by the architect Maiola, who modified its facade by adding Ionic columns and transforming its plan into an octagon.
Inside, the church reveals all its neoclassical splendor, with chapels dedicated to Saint Oronzo and the Sacred Heart of Jesus on one side, and to Saint Luigi and the Crucifix on the other. The right chapel, in particular, houses a sculpture of the Madonna della Porta, framed by a marble balustrade. The counter-facade is embellished with the organ and the choir, which with its profile attracts the attention of visitors.
We invite travelers to discover this hidden treasure, a small but significant piece of the religious and cultural history of Lecce, which reveals itself right next to the majestic Porta Napoli.
Paisiello Theater
Continuing beyond the Church of Santa Maria della Porta, on your left, you will come across an unmissable stop for art and history enthusiasts: the Paisiello Theater. This building, the oldest theater in Lecce, was born from the transformation of the "Teatro Nuovo", originally built in wood thanks to the funding of two noble citizens of Lecce, Gaetano Mancarella and Francesco Bernardini. Inaugurated on November 4, 1768 with the opera buffa "Le Gelosie" by Niccolò Piccini, the theater boasted a long inscription on the facade inviting passersby to stop, read, admire, and then continue their journey.
In 1867, the "Teatro Nuovo" was donated to the Municipality of Lecce, which decided to proceed with a complete reconstruction following the project of the engineer Oronzo Bernardini. The new theater was rebuilt in stone, adopting the scheme of the Italian-style theater, with interiors enriched by refined decorations, the work of the school of stage decorators of the royal theaters, the same ones who had worked at the San Carlo Theater in Naples.
Dedicated to the memory of the famous composer from Taranto, Giovanni Paisiello (1740-1816), the theater celebrates the extraordinary "Paisiello effect" of January 30, 1871, the evening of the performance of Giuseppe Verdi's "Ballo in maschera", an artistic symbol of united Italy.
Considered one of the most elegant theaters in southern Italy, the Paisiello has hosted over the years important opera and prose seasons. It is defined as "la bomboniera" (the jewel box). Its neoclassical façade, characterized by a wall covering with smooth ashlar and Doric columns supporting three large arches, hides an intimate and welcoming interior. With only 320 seats, distributed among the horseshoe-shaped stalls, three tiers of boxes, and an upper gallery, the environment is dominated by a finely decorated flat ceiling.
After being closed for years for safety reasons, at the end of the twentieth century, the theater underwent a profound restoration that renewed its structures and furnishings, consolidating its role as a precious cultural treasure of the city. Currently, under the management of the Cultural Policies Office of the Municipality of Lecce, the Paisiello theater hosts a varied program that includes contemporary drama, music, dance, as well as debates, conferences, and readings.
Trivia: before the construction of the theater, dramatic performances in Lecce took place in aristocratic residences or churches. In 1758, a large warehouse of weapons and ammunition was transformed into a temporary theater, demonstrating such a marked interest in scenic arts that even the main hall of the Castle of Charles V was temporarily used as a theater, funded by nobles and wealthy citizens. A visit to the Paisiello Theater offers not only a dive into the rich cultural history of Lecce but also the opportunity to experience art in one of its most refined and immortal expressions.
Palmieri Palace
Continuing along Via Palmieri, we come across Palazzo Palmieri, an architectural gem that traces the history and elegance of Lecce. This splendid building, a witness to the city's rich cultural heritage, dates back to the sixteenth century but has undergone significant renovations during the eighteenth century, reflecting the spirit of renewal that swept through the entire city during that period.
Palazzo Palmieri stands out for its structure divided into two floors: the ground floor, which retains the austerity of the original foundations, and the noble floor, reached by a wide staircase. This palace is not only a magnificent example of architecture but also a place steeped in history. It had the honor of hosting prominent historical figures such as Giuseppe Bonaparte and Gioacchino Murat in the early nineteenth century. Murat, in particular, left an indelible mark of his gratitude for the hospitality received, by engraving with the diamond of his ring the mirror of a shelf inside the palace.
The garden of Palazzo Palmieri houses an important archaeological testimony: an underground structure dating back to the 4th century BC, a time when the city was inhabited by the Messapians. This site, accessible only on special occasions such as the "Open Courtyards" days in May, attracts thousands of visitors curious to explore the ancient roots of Lecce.
The façade of the palace, overlooking Piazzetta Falconieri, is a sublime example of late Baroque architecture, while the side facing Via Palmieri boasts a wonderful portal in Catalan-Durazzesque style, the result of Rococo renovations in the mid-eighteenth century. The history of Palazzo Palmieri is intertwined with that of illustrious families, passing from the Franchini to the Palmieri, and finally to the Guarini, the current owners, enriching itself with events and personalities that have marked the times.
Palazzo Palmieri is not just a building but a real stage where generations, cultures, and stories have unfolded. A visit to this place offers a unique immersion in the history, art, and culture of Lecce, making it a must-see for those who want to experience the true spirit of Salento.
Basilica of Santa Croce: A Masterpiece of Refinement
The Basilica of Santa Croce in Lecce is a living testimony of Baroque art, capturing attention with a façade rich in emblematic details.
The façade, supported by six smooth columns that divide the structure, features a main portal erected in 1606. The pairs of Corinthian columns, the insignias of Philip III of Spain, and the coats of arms of the Celestine Order tell stories of power and belonging.
The second order is dominated by an imposing rose window inspired by the Romanesque style, surrounded by Corinthian columns and niches with the statues of St. Benedict and Pope Celestine V. Antonio Zimbalo's self-portrait, the symbolic statues of Faith and Fortitude, give a personal touch to the ensemble.
The tympanum, crowned by the triumph of the Cross, concludes the façade masterfully, following the Benedictine and Augustinian iconographic program. The telamons, depicting grotesque figures and fantastic animals, symbolize the catholicity of the Church and the redeeming power of Christ over all humanity.
Photo by: @gabrielekalos_travel